9 Steps for Effective Parking Lot Pothole Repair

At some point in time, all parking lots require pothole repair. Bowl-shaped potholes result from the localized break-up of the pavement due to several processes:

  • Raveling happens when the top layer of aggregate breaks free from the asphalt binder.
  • Segregation occurs when the aggregates break from the binder before laydown.
  • Alligator cracking occurs if the foundation or supporting structure can’t handle the weight of the asphalt.
  • Potholes can occur due to failures at joints or patches.
  • Water from snow, rain, or inadequate drainage can seep into the asphalt, causing it to crack and split, contributing to potholes.
  • During the winter-spring freeze-thaw cycle, water in the asphalt will cause potholes.

Parking lot owners can avoid the hassles and costs of parking lot repair with a few preventive steps: ensure efficient water drainage, seal cracks, keep the lot clean, and immediately repair potholes, and seal with Polyguard’s NW – 75 waterproofing membrane.

Nine Steps for Effective Parking Lot Pothole Repair

Polyguard offers this step-by-step guide for effectively repairing your parking, to avoid a time-consuming and costly lot overhaul.

Step One: Clear and Clean Your Parking Lot

Survey your parking lot from perimeter to perimeter, clearing away loose items like garbage, vegetation, crumbling asphalt, gravel, and surface dirt. Next, look for fuel, grease, leaf, and mulch stains.

  • You can use a broom, blower, or pressure washer to remove surface dirt, gravel, or loose items. However, If you use a pressure washer, do not use it on oil and grease stains because it will drive them deeper into the asphalt’s surface.
  • You can use a formulated degreaser like trisodium phosphate (TSP), bleach, or baking soda to help lift and lighten fuel and grease stains.
  • You can use soap or vinegar to remove most leaf and mulch stains. However, mix one capful of bleach with one gallon of water for deep, set-in stains. Apply the solution to the stain. After 30 minutes, scrub the stain.

Step Two: Prepare Pothole for Repair

To permanently repair a pothole, remove the visibly damaged material to the depth needed to reach firm support, including part of the subgrade, if necessary.

Compact the new material to square edges and create a rectangular shape, which will facilitate the compaction.

Step Three: Tack the Hole

Tack the vertical edges and the bottom of the cut-out with a thin bituminous liquid asphalt to promote bonding between HMA pavement lifts.

Step Four: Install Drainage

If the water in the pavement contributed to its failure, install drainage.

Step Five: Fill Potholes with Asphalt

  • Fill the pothole with dense-graded hot mix asphalt (HMA) or a cold patching mix slightly above the existing surface to allow for continued compaction due to vehicles. A low spot will hold surface water and eventually fail the repaired pothole. Also, smooth the top surface of the mix as much as possible to facilitate a smooth ride. 
  • Compact the hole with a rubber tire roller
  • Potholes deeper than 6 inches require applying the mix in two layers and thoroughly compacting each layer of the new asphalt mix. Adequate compaction will prevent deforming of the new material and stop water from entering the pavement.
  • For large parking lots with many potholes, spray-injection patching is a more efficient repair method. Spray-injection patching uses a specially-equipped truck with an emulsion tank, aggregate bin, and a high-volume blower with an injection head. Spray-injection patching:
    • Removes loose asphalt material and debris with compressed air 
    • Blows the tack coat, aggregate, and hot emulsion into the patch 
    • Uses forced air to compact the mix as it sprays into the patch

Step Six: Close Parking Deck

Close the parking lot for 24 hours, the approximate time needed for a hot asphalt patch to harden enough to handle the weight of a car.

Step Seven: Prepare Pothole for POLYGUARD’S NW-75

Sweep the area near the pothole of dust, dirt, or debris, which could affect the POLYGUARD NW-75’s adhesion.

With a brush or roller, apply Polyguard 650 RC Liquid Adhesive, an asphaltic solvent-based liquid adhesive primer, to the pavement around the repaired pothole, extending past where you plan to install the NW-75. The 650 RC Liquid Adhesive coats the existing surface and improves the bonding of the NW-75 and the pavement. Allow the liquid adhesive to dry to the touch.

Step Eight: Apply POLYGUARD’S NW-75

Peel and Stick Polyguard’s NW-75 waterproofing membrane can apply to newly filled potholes, forming a stable, waterproof roof, which stops water from entering the repaired area and causing failure due to asphalt stripping. Polyguard’s NW-75 also prevents ice from forming at the base of the repair, which can cause the pothole mix to pop out.

For proper adhesion of the POLYGUARD’S NW-75, only apply in temperatures of 50°F and greater, and to clean and dry adhesions. Remember that the warmer, dryer, and cleaner the pavement, the better the bond.

  • Using a razor blade, cut a piece of NW-75 large enough to cover the repair plus at least 6-inches beyond onto a clean, competent surface. For this application, we recommend purchasing a 48-inch roll of POLYGUARD’S NW-75.
  • Carefully remove the release film from the leading edge of the cut piece.
  • Lay the exposed adhesive side to the pavement adjacent to the filled pothole.
  • Continue to apply the NW-75 onto the pothole surface while releasing the protective film.
  • For repairs greater than 48-inches wide, overlap the NW-75. Always overlap the material, so the overlapped top edge is in the direction of traffic flow.
  • Roll the area with a rubber tire roller to ensure an adequate bond with the new mix and adjacent pavement.

Step Nine: Apply a Topcoat

When wet, the nonwoven geotextile top surface of NW-75 may lose surface friction.

Applying a topcoat of liquid asphalt and spreading coarse sand over the surface will solve this problem. When the asphalt cools, roll with a rubber tire roller.

Find the Best Parking Lot Pothole Repair Solutions with Polyguard’s Highway Division

For more on how to effectively repair parking lot potholes, don’t hesitate to contact our Polyguard highway division professionals today at 314-917-9349.

Pros and Cons of Fluid-Applied Air Barriers

A quality air barrier contributes toward an efficient exterior wall system by stopping air and any accompanying moisture from entering a building’s interior. Air barriers come in several forms with various applications: fluid-applied air barriers and sheet applied.

Building designers and contractors typically consider substrate materials, building geometry, project conditions, weather conditions, climate, time, and the need for the air barrier to control water vapor when deciding between sheet-applied and fluid-applied air barriers.

Let’s take a quick look at fluid-applied membrane air barriers, like Polyguard’s Airlok Flex® Fluid-Applied Air Barrier products, and the pros and cons of these systems.

Fluid-Applied Air Barriers

Fluid-applied air barriers provide a singular, monolithic coating that bonds to exterior sheathing without using fasteners. A high-quality fluid-applied air barrier contributes to durable, energy-efficient, and healthy commercial, institutional, and residential construction.

The Pros of Fluid-Applied Air Barriers

Fluid-applied air barriers provide numerous benefits that save time and money and help preserve the integrity and health of a structure.

Allows for Complex Detailing:

  • Fluid-applied air barriers easily adapt to complex substrate geometry.
  • Fluid-applied air barriers efficiently adhere to and waterproof various wall conditions and penetrations (like brick tiles or electrical conduits), detail wall openings, fasteners, and repair locations, and conform to uneven substrates, unlike sheet-applied air barriers that need cutting, folding, lapping, and sealing.

Quick Application:

  • A qualified installer can quickly spray-apply or roll the fluid-applied air barrier onto the wall substrate, saving time and money.
    Fluid-applied air barriers do not require a primer, further saving time.

Moisture Barrier:

  • Creates a seamless moisture barrier by reducing installation errors that can cause holes, tears, or lap joints.

Air Barrier:

  • Prevents air leakage, lessen energy costs and condensation and improve occupant’s comfort.

Wind Barrier:

  • Provides structural and full adherence, which creates stability and rigidity against strong wind events.

Durable:

  • Will not tear or lose effectiveness when exposed to outside elements during and after construction.

Safe:

  • Water-based fluid-applied air barriers are safe to use, easy to clean up, and V.O.C. compliant.

Rainwater Barrier:

  • Allow for pressure-equalized or pressure-moderated wall design, which lessens the risk of rainwater penetration through the wall system.

Lessen Repairs:

  • Protects the sheathing and rough openings from weather damage during and after construction, which minimizes repair or replacement costs.

The Cons of Fluid-Applied Air Barriers

Challenges in the application of fluid-applied air barriers require skilled installers and dry conditions.

Requires Skilled Labor:

  • A high-quality air barrier requires installers to apply fluid-applied air barriers, often with a specialized spray gun, at a constant, even rate to ensure consistent thickness and proper coverage at detail interfaces. Therefore the air barrier’s performance does not depend on the product’s manufacturing but on hiring qualified and skilled installers that strictly follow the manufacturer’s instruction, not an easy task with today’s skilled labor shortages.

Cost:

  • The need for skilled labor to apply fluid air barriers can make them costly.

Aversion to Moisture:

  • Fluid-applied air barriers will not fully adhere to moist, humid substrates. Incomplete bonding of the air barrier to the substrate will lead to the barrier flaking or pulling away from the substrate, forming holes in the barrier. For this reason, some contractors in regions known for moist and humid weather or frost-covered substrates hesitate to use fluid-applied air barriers.

Polyguard Airlok Flex® Family of Fluid-Applied Air Barriers

Easy-to-apply, single component Airlok Flex® Fluid-Applied Air Barrier products come in various options, including:

  • Permeable and non-permeable
  • Extended U.V. options
  • Low V.O.C.

You can easily apply (in one or two coats) our Airlok Flex® products with spray equipment or roller, detailing before or after application.

Airlok Flex®

In hot and cold temperatures, you can apply our single-component, patented, solvent-based Airlok Flex® fluid-applied air barrier (with a low V.O.C. option). Airlok Flex® offers numerous significant advantages:

  • Patented Thermoplastic Technology lessens application costs and exceeds industry standards
  • Installs quickly – up to 10,000 ft2 a day
  • It will adhere to treatments and transitional membranes, eliminating touchupApplies in cold conditions (down to -20°F)
  • As a single component product, it eliminates mixing inconsistent performance and mixing

Airlok Flex® VP and V.P. L.T.

The design of single-component, acrylic-based, and cold fluid-applied Airlok Flex® VP and V.P. L.T. elastomeric membrane prevents moisture and air penetration while allowing water vapor to escape. Advantages of Airlok Flex® VP and V.P. L.T. include:

  • Application temperature of 40°F to 120°
  • FAvailable in low temperature (L.T.) option with use in temperatures 20°F and rising
  • V.O.C. content of less than 50 (g/l)
  • Permeable (10 Perms)
  • Water-Based
  • 32 wet /16 dry mils (50 ft2 / gal theoretical coverage rate)
  • U.V. resistance of up to one year

Airlok Flex® WG and W.G. L.T.

The design of the Airlok Flex® WG (Weather-Guard) and W.G. L.T. air barrier provides superior U.V. resistance to meet the needs of thin mil applications and specifications.

Airlok Flex® WG and W.G. L.T. provide numerous advantages:

  • Application temperature of 40°F to 120°F
  • Available in low temperature (L.T.) version with use in temperatures 20°F and rising
  • Water-Based
  • VOC Content: 79 (g/l)
  • Permeable (21 perms)
  • U.V. resistance of up to two years
  • 20 wet / 10 dry mils (80 ft2 / gal theoretical coverage rate)

The Benefits of Polyguard Airlok Flex® Fluid-Applied Air Barrier Products

Polyguard’s single-component Airlok Flex® Family of Fluid-Applied Air Barrier products offer builders and architects a superior solution to their design and application challenges. Our easy-to-apply products save time and money during the application process and maintain their integrity for the structure’s lifetime.

Contact our Polyguard architectural professionals for more on the pros and cons of fluid-applied air barriers.

Rotted Wood Decking: Prevention and Repair Tips

Wood rot causes structural problems in a home, including deteriorating its wood deck. The cost of a rotted deck wood repair can run thousands of dollars. Therefore, protecting your wood deck’s integrity and value requires identifying the causes of wood rot, implementing measures to prevent it, and understanding how to repair rotted wood decks.

What Causes Wood Rot?

Moisture and fungi (microscopic organisms) can trigger wood rot, leading to costly rotted wood deck repair. Mycologists classify fungi that cause wood rot by their three general effects on wood.

Brown Rot (Dry Rot)

Fungi target cellulose in the wood’s structure, appearing as dry, brown-rot fungi on the wood’s surface. As the fungi destroy the cellulose, the wood shrinks, turns dark brown, and breaks into tiny cube-shaped bits (cubital fracture). Brown rot thrives at temperatures from 65 and 90 °F. Once it starts growing, it spreads rapidly.

White Rot

Fungi on the wood look whitish or light yellow and feel spongy. White-rot fungi break down lignin in the wood, leaving behind the light-colored cellulose. White rot happens in temperatures between 65 and 90 °F, like brown rot.

Soft Rot

Fungi decompose wood slower than brown-rot and white-rot fungi. Soft-rot fungi thrive in temperatures too hot and cold for the other types to survive, between 0 and 110 °F. Soft-rot fungi break down cellulose, leaving the wood with an appearance of a honeycomb. Generally, it occurs in fallen logs and trees, but under the right conditions, it can attack a house and its deck.

Where is a Deck Most at Risk of Rot?

Horizontal decking boards and stairs, even those treated for water resistance, may not dry out sufficiently to prevent wood rot. A prime spot for rotting occurs at the bottom of painted and untreated pine balusters. Water becomes trapped under the baluster and gives fungi a chance to grow.

How to Look for Wood Rot on Your Deck?

As part of your pre-winter weatherproofing tasks, you should check your deck for wood rot annually. You’ll need a good flashlight and long-handle screwdriver to test for soft spots.

  • Wood posts touching the ground come in more contact with moisture, which leads to wood rot and soft spots.
  • Common dry rot indicators include long sheets of grayish mold or darker-looking wood.
  • Termites may indicate dry rot since it attracts wood-eating pests.
  • If you find rot, inspect the surrounding area for the cause of stagnant water: gutter failure, sprinkler system issue, plumbing leaks, etc.

Seven Tips to Preventing Wood Rot on a Deck

Preventing wood rot requires removing the moisture and poisoning the fungi. However, routine inspection, cleaning, treatments, and material choice can also limit wood rot.

Here are seven tips for preventing wood rot, to help your deck last a lifetime.

  1. Minimize the wood deck’s exposure to moisture by installing a deck drainage system that will move water away from the joints and beams. Fungi need moisture levels above 18 percent to grow. Therefore, keeping the joist’s moisture level below this prevents rot.
  2. Routine deck cleaning to remove leaves and debris will significantly contribute toward preventing rotted wood decking.
  3. Applying boric acid (borate) to the wood deck or treating an active fungus growth can effectively kill the fungi.
  4. A bi-annual professional inspection will help identify moisture problems before they harm your deck.
  5. Building your deck with rot-resistant redwood, mahogany, cypress, or cedar can help limit, but not eliminate, wood rot.
  6. Pressure-treated wood offers some protection against rot, but you must still clean and coat it annually with a water-repellant.
  7. Building with rot-resistant composite decking eliminates the problem of rotting wood decks.

Preventing Rotting Wood Deck with PolyWall Rot Shield Joist Tape

The damp, unventilated area beneath a deck makes deck joints extremely prone to fungal rot, which can lead to expensive repairs and deck failure. In addition, the fungi hyphae can spread through the wood, disintegrating the cell walls and reducing their strength. To stop deck joist rot and preserve your deck’s value and integrity, builders can cold-apply self-adhering PolyWall Rot Shield Joist Tape as a flashing on deck joists and ledger boards.

Simple to apply, PolyWall Rot Shield Joist Tape provides a waterproof barrier that stops rot-causing water and debris from accumulating in the areas between the joists and deck boards. The flashing tape helps to water-seal around screw holes, metal fasteners, and hidden deck fasteners, preventing cracks and corrosion of the metal surface.
In addition, deck joist tape between treated wood and metal hangers prevents leaching copper (a preservative) from corroding the joist hinges that hold together the deck.

Properly installed Rot Shield Joist Tape will protect your deck from damaging rot, enhancing the deck’s integrity and limiting costly repairs. It can also prevent corrosion.
Furthermore, UV stable (up to 120 days) joist tape will minimize initial callbacks and repairs.

Tips on How to Repair Rotted Wood Deck with Polyguard

Polyguard suggests you hire an ASHI-certified home inspector or qualified deck builder to inspect your deck for safety and determine its extent of rot damage. In addition, you can evaluate your deck’s overall condition with the North American Deck and Railing Association (NADRA) ‘s 10-point inspection checklist. Then, depending on the damage and repair cost, you may decide on a new deck.

However, this “how-to repair rotted wood deck post” will show you a few simple tips for repairing a deck with minor rot.

  • Use a 5-in-1 rasp, claw hammer, or chisel to remove the rotted wood – being careful not to damage the surrounding wood.
  • Use wood filler, hardener, or epoxy to strengthen the rotted areas.
  • If you cannot remove the damaged wood, use wood filler, hardener, or epoxy to enhance the rotted areas.
  • Stain and seal the new boards and wood filler to protect the wood from water.

A deck adds value and aesthetics to your home; therefore, Polyguard recommends you call a professional to identify and fix areas of rot on your deck to protect your asset.

Contact the Polyguard professionals today for more tips on preventing and repairing rotted wood decking.

18 Steps for Installing Commercial Windows and Best Practices

Installing high-performing windows saves energy and blocks various kinds of damaging light, saving a tremendous amount of money and creating a more comfortable indoor environment.

Unfortunately, new windows are expensive. However, if you are an experienced DIYer with an extra set of hands, you can save a lot of money on new windows by installing them yourself. Choosing quality window installation products, like PolyWall Window Flashing products and Polyguard peel and stick vapor barrier products, will ensure the success and longevity of your new windows.

Considerations When Installing Windows

  • Your local ordinances may mandate a local building inspector to ensure that the flashing (and all window installation details) meets local building codes. 
  • The 2021 IBC (1405.4) and IRC (R703.4.1) mandate installing flashing on the exterior window and door openings to prevent moisture from entering the wall or redirecting it to the exterior. 
  • Furthermore, DOE Zero Energy Ready Home and ENERGY STAR Certified Homes require flashing around the door and window openings.

To maintain the window’s warranty, you must apply flashing to a specific window according to the manufacturer’s instructions. However, builders usually follow a standard sequence of steps when using flashing around a new window.

Read on for 18 common steps for installing commercial windows. Always follow your window manufacturer’s specific instructions.

18 Steps to Installing Commercial Windows

Properly installed and flashed windows will add value to your home or building. They will also save money and energy for years to come. Installing a new, water- and air-tight window requires layering a sequence of specific window flashings. Each layer overlaps the layer under it to direct water flow down and away.

Step 1: Wrap Weather or Vapor Resistant Barrier Around Window Edges

Ensure the window opening and surrounding surfaces are clean, dust-free, dry, and smooth. Wrap an exterior wall vapor barrier (house wrap) around the inside edges (jambs and sills) of the window’s rough openings to protect against water intrusion.

Polyguard Peel and Stick Vapor Barriers

Simple to apply peel and stick vapor barriers make it the preferred water vapor barrier for residential, commercial, and industrial buildings. A quality peel and stick vapor barrier provides fast adherence, durability, and puncture, sunlight, and chemical resistance. They also lack VOCs. Polyguard peel and stick products provide all these features:

Our products guarantee a high-performing, long-lasting vapor barrier for your windows when correctly installed.

Step 2. Back Dam

Create a back dam or positive slope on the sill to remove water and stop it from reaching the wall cavity. To do this, peel back the vapor barrier on the sill and lay a strip of tapered wood or clapboard on the sill, with the thick side on the inside of the window frame. Tack the wood piece, then pull the vapor barrier back over it. Increase the rough opening’s height by about 1/2 inch to accommodate the back dam.

Step 3. Pull Back Header Vapor Barrier

Pull back and secure the vapor barrier above the header, to uncover a foot of substrate.

Step 4. Apply Self-Stick Flashing Tape

Cut a piece of flashing tape the window’s width plus six inches, so it overlaps three inches on each side.

Step 5: Remove Backing

Remove the sticky backing of the flashing and install it on the sill.

Step 6: Cut Window Sills

Cut the window sill at the rough opening’s corners so you can fold the flashing onto the barrier service.

Step 7: Cut Flashings for Corners

Cut flashing patches, installing them at each corner.

Step 8. Prepare Window for Leveling

  • Draw a horizontal line on the nailing fin at the center point of the vertical sides of the window.
  • Determine where you want to center the window on the wall, marking the point on both vertical sides of the rough opening. Then use a level to draw a horizontal line from the center point marks away from the rough opening. Do this on both vertical sides of the rough opening.

Step 9: Center the Window

Place the window into the rough opening, then center.

  • Center the window from the outside by sliding the window tight against the opening on the right side.
  • Mark where the edge of the fin (on the right side) touches the exterior wall.
  • Then, slide the window to the left, and again mark where the edge of the same fin touches the exterior wall.
  • Divide the space between the two lines in half.
  • Slide the window back to the halfway mark between the lines, centering the window into the opening.
  • Remove the window from the rough opening.

Step 10: Apply Caulking

Create a dam in the center of the sill by applying a bead of caulking, like Poly Wall® Blue Barrier™ Joint Filler 2200. The dam will prevent water under the window from passing into the interior of the home or building.

Caulk along the sill, tight along the length of the corners, and up the sides three or four inches.

Run a bead of caulking along the rough opening’s outer sides and top edges. Do not place the caulking on the bottom edge.

Poly Wall® Blue Barrier™ Joint Filler 2200

You can use Blue Barrier™ Joint Filler 2200 (a structural adhesive and detail sealant) to chalk along window openings and prep surfaces before application of other Poly Wall® Blue Barrier™ products for Window and Door Flashings and Air Barriers. We developed Joint Filler 2200 utilizing Silyl Terminated Polyether (STPE) Technology.

Step 11: Leveling the Window

Carefully lift and place the window in the opening, pulling back the nail fins.

  • Match the center line on the nail fin with the horizontal line on the exterior wall. Have a helper inside the house manipulate the window with a shim until the markings match up, then insert one nail in the fin near the markings.
  • To make the window level, match up the other side’s nail fin center mark and a horizontal line on the exterior wall. Again, have the inside helper adjust the window until the lines match up, then insert one nail near the markings.

Step 12: Squaring the Window

  • Place a level along the right vertical side of the window. Adjust the window from the outside until the window is plumb.
  • Insert nails loosely.
  • Check to ensure the window is still square by measuring diagonally with a tape measure, from one corner to the other. Then measure from the other corners. The measurements should be the same if the window is square.
  • Adjust and center the unit by inserting shims under the sill and behind the side jambs.
  • Insert a few more nails
  • Again, check that the window is plumb, level, and square before inserting the remaining nails.
  • From the inside, insert a window shim between the sill and window. It should be snug. It will keep the window in place.
  • Fill in any holes, particularly around the corners, with caulking.

Step 13: Cut Flashing

Measure and cut two pieces of the flashing to overlap the window sill.

Step 14: Extend Flashing Over Opening

At the bottom and top of the window, extend the flashing three inches above and below the opening.

Step 15. Roll Flashing

Use a hand roller to roll the entire flashing service to seal the bond.

Step 16: Extend Flashing Beyond Jamb Flashing

Measure and cut one section of flashing that will overlap and extend two inches beyond the jamb flashing onto the exposed substrate (wood).

Step 17: Fold Vapor Barrier Over Header

Fold the vapor barrier over the header on top of the window seal. Then, cut two six-inch flashing sections to cover the 45-degree cuts and the vapor barrier.

Step 18: Install a Drip Cap

Fit a drip cap over the window’s top to shed water outward and keep it from seeping behind the window.

Successful Commercial Window Installation with PolyWall Products

You can save money on commercial windows by installing them yourself. Just follow the 18 steps above and the manufacturer’s instructions. However, your window installation project’s success depends on using quality window products, like PolyWall Window Flashing products and Polyguard peel and stick vapor barrier products.

Properly installing commercial windows with Polywall products will protect the windows’ durability, efficiency, and longevity by preventing moisture infiltration. They will also reduce energy use and improve air quality.

Don’t hesitate to contact PolyWall professionals today for more information on how to install commercial windows.

How to Plan an Integrated Building Envelope System

Integrated building envelope systems are a superior solution for constructing sustainable, high-performing buildings. An integrated building envelope plan should keep its occupants secure, safe, and comfortable. In addition, it should protect the environment through energy efficiency and long-term structural durability.

Achieving these goals requires a continuous, tested, integrated building envelope system that includes several control layer components: an air, vapor, water, and thermal barrier, along with a water-shedding facade:

  • An air barrier lessens energy and condensation loss by limiting the uncontrolled flow of air through the wall systems.
  • A vapor retarder minimizes condensation by controlling the flow of water vapor as it moves from high- to low-pressure spaces.
  • A water penetration barrier flashed to the cladding’s exterior, stops water from entering the wall cavity.
  • A thermal barrier that mitigates energy loss and stops thermal bridging.
  • A durable, water-shedding façade protects against environmental elements, impacts, pollutants, U.V. exposure, etc.

Not including an effective building envelope system in a building’s design can lead to uncontrolled airflow and water penetration, which causes high heating and cooling costs, deterioration of building components, and poor indoor air quality.

Polyguard’s Integrated Building Envelope® System

Maximizing the performance of your integrated building envelope system requires using high-quality components engineered and tested to the highest standards, like Polyguard’s architectural products. For over 60 years, our waterproofing, air barrier, drainage, and accessory systems have provided architects and builders with a single-source solution to an integrated building envelope system, protecting buildings from structurally damaging, uncomfortable, and unhealthy air and moisture infiltration.

Polyguard Below-Grade Waterproofing Systems

Polyguard’s below-grade waterproofing product line includes durable, long-lasting sheet and fluid-applied membranes for pre-applied and post-applied applications.

Below-grade concrete slabs and foundation walls need waterproofing because they inevitably crack, which allows water and contaminants to infiltrate the wall system. For over 30 years, our proven products have stood up to the harshest of conditions.

PRE-APPLIED SHEET WATERPROOFING

Typically, builders apply Polyguard’s durable pre-applied sheet waterproofing membranes before the concrete pour, which produces superior performance and resistance to water migration. Our Underseal family of products can be used for horizontal (Underslab) applications or in vertical (Blindside) applications.

Underseal® Underslab Membrane

For new construction, properly installing Polyguard Underseal® Underslab Membrane will stop moisture from infiltrating the underside of the concrete slab. In addition, it provides low diffusion, excellent damage resistance, and longevity (more than E.P.A. or ASTM standards), making it substantially cost-effective over your home’s or building’s lifespan.

For vertical, horizontal, and shotcrete applications, a robust 85-mill, pre-concrete pour, roll-on Underseal® Underslab waterproofing membrane/vapor barrier successfully eliminates water and vapor transmission through concrete slabs on grade to protect a floor’s finish. In addition, Underseal® Underslab 3-layer composite membrane acts as a barrier to methane and radon gas, which improves indoor air quality.

Underseal® Underslab Membrane typically applies horizontally over a prepared sub-base like mud slab, #57 stone, and compacted soil. During concrete pouring, the concrete will intermingle with the fibers of the nonwoven geotextile to form a solid mechanical bond and provide a continuous seal under the concrete slab. Only install Underslab Membranes at temperatures higher than 24°F (-4°C).

Builders install Polyguard Underseal® Blindside™ Membrane before the foundation wall. First, builders apply it to the soil support (i.e., shoring, rocks, sheet pile, the neighboring building, slurry wall). Then they apply shotcrete or concrete against the membrane, which allows the waterproofing membrane to adhere to the concrete foundation.

For help with shotcrete applications of the Underseal® Underslab Membrane in the water table, contact Polyguard Architectural Technical Services at archtech@polyguard.com.

Other Advantages of Underseal Underslab Membrane

  • Produce a solid adhesive bond with the concrete surface to prevent water migration between the concrete and membrane
  • Offers full-adhering, watertight laps at all joints
  • Eliminates water and vapor migration
    The membrane’s flexibility to adapt to the job site allows for simple installation
  • The barrier’s stress-absorbing and elongation properties will maintain a watertight seal if a crack develops in the base material or slab
    Offers excellent puncture resistance of 220 lbs, 64 times higher than the requirements of a Class A Vapor Barrier, and will withstand abuse during construction

    • May qualify for L.E.E.D. Certification via these credits:
    • S.S. Credit 3 – Brownfield redevelopment
    • ID Credit 1 -Innovation in design
    • A.Q. Credit 5 -Indoor Chemical and Pollutant Source Control (below-grade toxin barrier)

Polyguard Underseal® Blindside™ Membrane

Builders install Polyguard Underseal® Blindside™ Membrane before the foundation wall. First, builders apply it to the soil support (i.e., shoring, rocks, sheet pile, the neighboring building, slurry wall). Then they apply shotcrete or concrete against the membrane, which allows the waterproofing membrane to adhere to the concrete foundation.

POST-APPLIED SHEET WATERPROOFING

Builders typically apply post-applied sheet membranes after the concrete pour for vertical and horizontal applications.

UNDERSEAL 650 MEMBRANE

Robust, flexible, 60-mil 650 sheets of self-adhesive vapor retarder/waterproofing membranes stop water and vapor transmissions through poured concrete foundation walls, insulated concrete forms (I.C.F.), wood, and C.M.U. In addition, the 650 membrane’s design allows for use in horizontal/split slab and vertical/secure walls and applications for crucial waterproofing projects.

The Polyguard 650 Membrane comes in a wide membrane (up to 48-inches) to allow a simple and fast application to continuous flat surfaces. However, we also offer a more narrow width membrane for trimming corners, construction joints, and other applications.

UNDERSEAL ® PRM™ Puncture Resistant Membrane

High-strength, self-healing 65-mil Underseal® PRM™ provides builders with a post-concrete pour sheet vapor retarder/waterproofing membrane with a double-thick, cross-laminated polyetrhylene backing laminated to a thick layer of rubberized asphalt compound.

Underseal® PRM™ adheres permanently and securely to the concrete. Its backing also creates a continuous barrier to moisture vapor and water infiltration.

Builders can install Underseal® PRM™ vertically on concrete foundation walls, tunnels, and exterior sides needing waterproofing. Underseal® PRM™ provides faster application by removing the step of installing a protection course before backfilling operations.

Builders can also install Underseal® PRM™ to horizontal slab applications like parking garages, plaza decks, plywood decks, and similar applications. It also allows concrete topping slab installation without a separate protection course in most situations.

CHEMICAL RESISTANT MEMBRANE (CRM™) SYSTEM

Polyguard’s Chemical Resistant Membrane (CRM™) system provides a needed solution to combat chemical attacks from contaminants in the soil, particularly in previously considered uninhabitable urban areas.

UNDERSEAL® CRM™

For chemical-resistant walls, 85-mil Underseal® CRM™ offers a superior solution to standing up to high concentrations of soil, water, and vapor contaminants.

Pre-applied, fortified Underseal® CRM™ sheet membrane includes a multi-unit, chemical-resistant backing that covers a layer of waterproofing adhesive compound and an integrated robust, nonwoven geotextile fabric. Applied horizontally, Underseal® CRM™ produces a continuous seal behind vertical “blindside” cast-in-place concrete walls or below the concrete slab.

ULTRA CRM™

Post-applied, 60-mil Ultra CRM™ is a strong sheet membrane with multi-component, chemical-resistant backing laminated to a thick layer of waterproofing adhesive compound. It can stand up to high concentrations of vapor, fluid, and soil contaminants. Polyguard designed the Ultra CRM™ for poured concrete foundation walls, tunnels, parking garages, etc., that require chemical-resistant waterproofing.

FLUID-APPLIED WATERPROOFING

Cold liquid-applied, hot liquid-applied, or single component waterproofing applies over prepared substrate surfaces.

Commercial Stretch Fluid-Applied Waterproofing

Using Polyguard’s patented thermoplastic technology, we developed our Commercial Stretch Fluid-Applied Waterproofing MembraneIt provides a cold-applied (as cold as -20° F) spray product that produces a seamless and durable waterproofing membrane that can bridge substrate shrinkage cracks up to 1/16-inch, minimizing surface breaches and eliminating joint problems. Commercial Stretch applies to below-grade exterior waterproofing of C.M.U., concrete, precast concrete, and structural surfaces on the hydro-positive side.

FLUID-APPLIED DAMPPROOFING PRO 1000

The design of PRO 1000 permits for positive-side hydrostatic pressure application over below-grade concrete masonry walls, poured concrete, and precast concrete. Builders can also apply PRO 1000 as a negative-side, vapor impermeable coating on the inside of a below-grade wall in combination with damp or waterproofing the outside of the wall with PRO 1000 or other Polyguard material.

The single-component, cold-applied, patented PRO 1000 creates a non-breathable, non-elastomeric, thermoplastic membrane. The membrane dries to a U.V.-resistant, robust, recoatable, hard-coat, protective film that stops water passage through a substrate, protects against melting snow, rain, and in the areas between the grade and exterior finish.

Polyguard Air Barriers

Single component Airlok Flex® Fluid-Applied Air Barrier products come in several options, including:

  • Permeable and non-permeable
  • Low V.O.C.
  • Extended U.V. options

In addition, you can easily apply (in one or two coats) our Airlok Flex® products with roller or spray equipment, detailing before or after application.

Airlok Flex®

You can apply patented, single-component, solvent-based Airlok Flex® fluid-applied air barrier (with low V.O.C. option) in cold and hot temperatures. Airlok Flex® offers several significant benefits:

  • Applies in very cold conditions (down to -20°F)
  • Patented Thermoplastic Technology lessens application costs and exceeds industry standards
  • It will adhere to transitional membranes and treatments, eliminating touchup
  • As a single component product, it eliminates mixing and inconsistent performance
  • Installs quickly – up to 10,000 ft2 a day.

Airlok Flex® VP and V.P. L.T.

The design of cold fluid-applied, single-component, and acrylic-based Airlok Flex® VP and V.P. L.T. elastomeric membrane stops air and moisture penetration while allowing water vapor to escape. Benefits of Airlok Flex® VP and V.P. L.T. include:

  • V.O.C. content of less than 50 (g/l)
  • Permeable (10 Perms)
  • Water-Based
  • Application temperature of 40°F to 120°F
  • Available in low temperature (L.T.) option with use in temperatures 20°F and rising
  • U.V. resistance of up to one year
  • 32 wet /16 dry mils (50 ft2 / gal theoretical coverage rate)

Airlok Flex® WG and W.G. L.T.

The design of the Airlok Flex® WG (Weather-Guard) and W.G. L.T. air barrier offers exceptional U.V. resistance, to meet the needs of thin mil specifications and applications.

Airlok Flex® WG and W.G. L.T. offer several benefits:

  • Water-Based
  • VOC Content: 79 (g/l)
  • Permeable (21 perms)
  • Application temperature of 40°F to 120°F
  • Available in low temperature (L.T.) version with use in temperatures 20°F and rising
    20 wet / 10 dry mils (80 ft2 / gal theoretical coverage rate)
  • U.V. resistance of up to two years

Polyguard Drainage Systems

The design of lightweight, high-capacity Polyflow® Drainage products provides our customers with various easy-to-install solutions for lightweight drainage. In addition, our drain systems decrease excavation needs and are compatible with our engineered sheet and liquid membrane products.

Polyflow® 15 / 15P

Polyguard manufactures the Polyflow® 15 sheet molded drain with a geo-composite of a formed impermeable polymeric core that allows the water to flow to designated drainage exits. In addition, the core’s design includes a side covered with a polymeric filter fabric that allows the flow of water into the drain core while limiting the movement of soil particles, in order to prevent clogging of the core. It is ideal for numerous applications, including foundation and blindside walls.

Benefits and features of the Polyflow® 15 / 15P include:

  • Relieves hydrostatic pressure
  • Lightweight and straightforward to install
  • High capacity flow; four times the capacity of aggregate or sand
  • Compressive strength of 15,000 psf
  • Compliments waterproofing system by removing water
  • Works with Polyguard Totalflow ™

Polyguard Totalflow™

For high-volume applications, Totalflow™ is a high-capacity sheet molded perimeter drainage system constructed with a formed polymeric core designed to move water collected from sheet drains to an outlet drain. Benefits and features of the Totalflow ™ include:

  • Relieves hydrostatic pressure in retaining walls and foundations
  • Fast and straightforward to install, it eliminates the select backfill requirements
  • A high profile allows it to accept higher water flow
  • Easy transitions between sheet drain and high profile

Polyguard System Accessories

Polyguard Architectural Products gives builders and architects a single source for obtaining a high-performing, integrated building envelope system, including a comprehensive line of superior accessory products. System accessories include adhesives, detailing products, and detailing tapes. They are compatible with the most common structural construction materials and will significantly enhance the design of an effective building envelope system.

How to Plan an Integrated Building Envelope System with Polyguard Products

Polyguard Architectural Products offer a single-source solution to planning an integrated building envelope system that contributes toward sustainability and helps ensure that the building keeps its occupants secure, safe, and comfortable.

Polyguard products achieves these goals with our tested, continuous building envelope components, including waterproofing, air barrier, drainage, and accessory systems.

Contact our Polyguard architectural professionals for more on planning an integrated building envelope system.

How to Paint Aluminum Flashing

Aluminum flashing’s long-term performance depends on proper aluminum flashing painting and maintenance. Damaged or compromised aluminum flashing can allow moisture to infiltrate the building envelope, which can lead to structurally damaging and unhealthy mold.

Painting Aluminum Flashing

Painting aluminum flashing will protect it from pollution and salty air that can cause the flashing to pit and oxidize. In addition, you must paint aluminum flashing that is in direct contact with cement-based materials due to cement’s corrosive nature.

In addition, painting aluminum flashing can improve a structure’s aesthetics because reflective aluminum flashings often don’t complement a structure’s exterior design. For example, you can draw attention away from shiny flashing by painting aluminum window flashing or painting flashing on roof aluminum with a low-gloss, matte paint.

How to Paint Aluminum Flashing in 7 Steps

The success of painting aluminum flashing depends on choosing the right paint and following these 7 simple steps:

Materials for Painting Aluminum Exterior Wall and Roof Flashing:

  • Roof flashing spray paint
  • Ladder
  • Rag
  • Hard-bristle cleaning brush
  • Putty knife or wire brush
  • 150-grit sandpaper
  • Cardboard, tarp, or newspaper
  • Painter’s tape
  • Protective gear (gloves, goggles, and a dust mask) to limit exposure to the metal dust particles.

How to Choose the Best Flashing Paint

Moisture, heat, and sunlight will attack flashing, especially roof flashing. Therefore, the paint you select must stand up to these harsh conditions, like a quality acrylic or latex spray paint that offers high heat and U.V. resistance. In addition, paints with matte or satin finishes will help hide dents and scratches often found in lightweight metals, like aluminum.

Step 1: Clean the Roof Flashing

Clean dust, dirt, cobwebs, and other debris from the aluminum flashing using a rag and soapy, warm water. For old, rusty flashing, use a hard-bristle cleaning brush to ensure the complete removal of all grime and dirt. Rinse the area well with clean water.

Step 2: Remove Old Paint and Rust

Using a putty knife or a wire brush, scrape away any peeling, old paint, and rust from the surface of the aluminum flashing. Skip this step when painting new aluminum flashing.

Step 3: Sand the Roof Flashing

Using 150-grit sandpaper, sand the flashing to remove any loose paint and to roughen the surface slightly which will improve the paint bond.

Step 4: Cover or Mask the Surrounding Area

Cover the surrounding space with a piece of cardboard, a painter’s tarp, or some newspaper and painter’s tape to protect it from overspray.

Step 5: Apply Primer

Spray rust-preventive, self-etching primer in thin coats, according to the manufacturer’s direction, to seal. Self-etching primers contain acid that can etch the aluminum, which leads to better adhesion.

After applying the primer, let it dry, then repeat sanding.

Step 6: Painting the Roof Flashing

Vigorously shake the paint can for a few minutes. Hold the can about 10 to 12 inches from the aluminum surface. Then, using side-to-side sweeping motions, apply a thin coat of paint. Let the paint dry, then spray another thin coat. It may take three or more coats to cover the flashing with consistent color.

Let the paint fully cure as directed by the paint manufacturer.

Step 7: Apply Enamel Sealer

After the paint thoroughly dries, apply at least two coats of enamel sealer, allowing the sealer to cure according to the manufacturer’s recommendations. The enamel layer will help protect the painted aluminum from scratching, chipping, or fading.

When to Use Aluminum Flashing

Builders may prefer aluminum flashings for visible flashing or areas that need to hold a shape or serve as a drip edge. Light-gauge aluminum flashing provides a continuous barrier of thin sheet metal that stops water from flowing through a joint or angle and into the building envelope. Soft, flexible aluminum flashing also installs easily and holds its shape. Builders can use aluminum flashing on numerous areas of a building:

  • Flashing the roof valleys will stop the water that can accumulate in the low spots and the ice dams in the winter from infiltrating the roof system.
  • Flashing around the angles formed by the roof’s eaves, pipes, and chimneys will prevent water intrusion into the roof assembly.
  • Wall flashings applied at windows, doors, corners, intersections, and wherever a roof terminates into a wall help prevent moisture (which can collect due to condensation or small gaps in the siding) from infiltrating behind the house wrap.
  • Install flashing at the bottom of all exterior walls and adequately integrate the flashing with other water management details, to direct the water down and out of the wall.

Concerns with Aluminum Flashing

You must sufficiently and adequately paint aluminum flashing to protect its integrity and ensure its water tightness. Not adequately painting aluminum flashing can lead to moisture infiltration into the building envelope, which can cause structurally damaging and unhealthy mold. Some situations of particular concern with aluminum flashing include:

  • In coastal areas, salty air can cause aluminum to pit and oxidize.
  • Polluted urban air can cause aluminum to scale and rust.
  • Improper or unpainted aluminum flashing can rust if in contact with building materials like concrete, mortar, and pressure-treated wood.

Polyguard Flashings – An Alternative to Aluminum Flashing

Fortunately, Polyguard offers several easy-to-apply, durable, and high-quality alternatives to aluminum flashing:

  • Blue Barrier™ Liquid Flashing 2100 
  • PolyWall® Blue Barrier Flash’ N Wrap 2400 
  • Arc Flash™ Tape

Polyguard Arc Flash™ Tape

When properly installed, strong, self-adhered, and waterproof adhesive Polyguard Arc Flash™ tape can tightly seal gaps between the doors, windows, and around vents, chimneys, skylights, and other fixtures of the building’s exterior. Roofers also use flashing tape to secure shingles and seal cracks.

Polyguard Arc Flash™ Tape

Arc Flash™ self-seals around nails, staples, fasteners, and waterproofs below surfaces. It adheres instantly to dry, clean surfaces. In addition, its elastic properties will stretch and keep its integrity if a structure moves.

Polyguard’s 70-mil, self-adhering Polyguard Arc Flash™ tape provides a rubberized asphalt waterproofing coating, laminated to a stretchable, high-strength, and crimped film backing. Builders can use flexible Arc Flash™ products to strip in or flash straight round-top corners or custom-shaped areas. It comes in 75-foot rolls, 12-inch, 9-inch, and 6-inch wide.

Poly Wall® Liquid Flashing

The design of Poly Wall® Building Solutions liquid flashing products (trowel and roller grade) offers superior liquid flashing for sealing around pipes, doors, windows, and penetrations or fill gaps.

Blue Barrier™ Liquid Flashing 2100 (Trowel Grade)

Blue Barrier™ Liquid Flashing 2100 produces a weather-resistant, fully adhered air barrier system around door and window installations. Poly Wall® developed the Blue Barrier™ Liquid Flashing 2100 by utilizing Silyl Terminated Polyether Technology (STPE), a hybrid product of silicone and polyurethane technologies. Uniting these chemistries creates an environmentally-friendly, permeable liquid flashing, with superb shore hardness and excellent adhesion.

Blue Barrier™ Liquid Flashing 2100 (Trowel Grade)

Blue Barrier™ Flash’ N Wrap 2400 (Roller Grade)

Poly Wall® ‘s Blue Barrier Flash’ N Wrap 2400 applies with a roller and creates a permeable and continuous membrane around windows and doors. In addition, sustainable Blue Barrier Flash’ N Wrap 2400 utilizes STPE technology that permits wet surface applications, does not need priming or mixing, and dries fast.

Blue Barrier™ Flash' N Wrap 2400 (Roller Grade)

Blue Barrier Flash’ N Wrap 2400 offers:

  • High-quality indoor comfort and health
  • Durability to protect your home’s integrity
  • Strong adhesion and excellent shore hardness

The Importance of Properly Painting Aluminum Flashing

Properly painting aluminum flashing involves preparing the substrate for painting by cleaning, scraping, sanding, and priming. Next, apply several thin layers of paint and allow it to dry. Finally, use an enamel sealer for added protection. Adequate painting of the aluminum flashing will protect it from oxidizing due to pollutes and salty air.

In addition, painting the flashing will defend against the corrosive nature of cement. Damaged or compromised coatings/paintings on aluminum flashing can allow moisture to infiltrate the building envelope which can lead to structurally damaging and unhealthy mold.

Contact one of our Polyguard professionals today for more on painting aluminum flashing. In addition, we can help you with our alternative flashing products to aluminum flashing – Blue Barrier™ Liquid Flashing 2100, Poly Wall®’s Blue Barrier Flash’ N Wrap 2400, and Arc Flash™ Tape.

5 Wood Deck Protection Essentials

Maintaining your wood deck will preserve its value and elevate the aesthetics of your home’s outdoor entertainment space. The best protection for a wood deck requires guarding against sun exposure, moisture, debris, snow, ice, and normal wear and tear – all of which can make a deck look outdated and drab. Following these five wood deck protection essentials will help ensure your deck’s beauty and integrity for years to come.

5 Wood Deck Protection Essentials

Five Wood Deck Protection Essentials

The best wood deck protection, with specific design and maintenance practices, will preserve your deck’s integrity during and after construction.

Design Requirements

Protecting your wood deck from moisture, sunlight, and mold requires designing the deck with:

Routine Maintenance

In order to preserve the aesthetics and performance of your wood deck, you must perform routine maintenance, including:

  • Quick removal of debris
  • Immediate removal of snow and ice
  • Seasonal inspections and prompt repairs

1. Protect Your Deck from Moisture

Stopping the growth of structurally damaging rot requires minimizing your wood deck’s exposure to moisture. Several water-resistant techniques you can apply to your wood deck include applying a waterproof sealant, high-quality stain, deck joist tape, and under-deck drainage panels.

Apply a Waterproof Sealant

Applying a waterproof sealant to your wood deck every few years will stop the deck from swelling from moisture and drying out from sun exposure. The waterproof sealant should penetrate deep within the wood in order to protect the boards and repel moisture from the inside out.

Apply and Maintain a High-Quality Deck Stain

The longevity of a wood deck also depends on keeping it properly stained. In addition, A high-quality stain can stop excess moisture and the growth of structurally damaging mold. Tips for applying a deck stain include:

  • Due to the significance of staining to the longevity of your deck, consider using a professional.
  • Apply two coats of high-quality semi-transparent, semi-opaque or solid deck stain to keep your deck strong and beautiful.
  • Only apply stain to a completely dry deck.

Apply a High-Quality Deck Joist Tape

A high-quality deck joist tape, like PolyWall Rot Shield Joist Tape, will improve your wood deck’s durability, will help ensure the deck’s integrity and minimize expensive repairs. Cold-applying self-adhering deck joist tape as a flashing on deck joints and ledger boards creates a durable moisture and debris barrier between the joists, deck boards, and ledger boards, to enhance the deck’s durability and minimize or eliminate costly repairs.

PolyWall Rot Shield Joist Tape

PolyWall Rot Shield Joist Tape is a rubberized-asphalt ”sticky” compound with a high-density polyethylene (HDPE) plastic film face. The brown-colored Rot Shield Joist Tape” camouflages below deck boards.

PolyWall Rot Shield Joist Tape

PolyWall Rot Shield Joist Tape provides several advantages:

  • Rot Shield Joist Tape produces a water and debris barrier between non-corrosive galvanized metal hangers and treated lumber. It will protect vulnerable wood joists (treated and untreated), rim joists, and ledger boards from moisture and structurally damaging rot.
  • Deck joist tape between metal hangers and treated wood stops leaching copper from corroding the joist hinges that hold together the deck.
  • Rot Shield Joist Tape stops contact between the galvanized metal fasteners and treated wood to prevent corrosion.
  • The flashing tape stops water infiltration by helping to seal around screw holes, metal fasteners, and hidden deck fasteners. It also prevents cracks and corrosion of the metal surface.

Simple to Apply Rot Shield Joist Tape

Rot Shield Joist Tape provides deck DIY-ers and builders with an easy, single-step method to protect deck joists from water and rot damage.

Simple to Apply Rot Shield Joist Tape

PolyWall manufactures Rot Shield Joist Tape in wide, 4-inch by 100-foot rolls with an easy-to-apply split release liner. The tape guidelines (1.25-inches from the edge on each side) create a smooth, clean installation and a high-quality appearance to minimize adjustments and wrinkles.

Furthermore, deck builders can apply the joist tape without priming and in chilly-winter weather. In addition, our UV-stable (up to 120 days) joist tape will minimize initial callbacks and repairs.

Install Under-Deck Drainage Panels

Maintaining the long-term integrity of your new-beautiful deck requires installing high-quality under-deck drainage panels, like Polyguard’s lightweight, high-capacity Polyflow® BD Sheet Molded Drainage Mat(compatible with our engineered Polyguard’s Balconyguard™ Membrane).

Drainage panels will protect the deck’s substructures from moisture, and keep the area below the deck dry and usable for storage, recreation, etc. Preserving your deck’s durability and attractiveness requires a design that protects against heat and provides sufficient ventilation to remove accumulated water.

Polyflow® BD Sheet Molded Drainage Mat

The Polyguard Polyflow® B.D. drainage system provides under-deck drainage. It comes as a sheet-molded drain, to produce pathways for deck water management. The fabric directs the water flow to specific drainage exits. Additionally, the punched core increases the water release rate from within the system.

Polyguard’s Balconyguard™ Membrane

Builders can use self-adhesive, 60 mil Polyguard’s Balconyguard™ waterproofing membrane on lightweight concrete-covered wood deck decks, balconies, and terraces.

However, before applying Balconyguard™ Membrane, we suggest you contact Polyguard Technical Services or representatives of an authorized company for assistance with shop drawings or job-specific details.

Easy to install, Balconyguard™ Membranes offer several features and benefits specially designed for waterproofing decks and exposed multi-story walkways covered with lightweight concrete:

  • Treated removable release film
  • 48-inch wide by 50-feet rolls (200 ft2) reduces the need for seams by 25 percent, compared to 36-inch wide products — saving time and reducing the required seams
  • High-strength PET film
  • Tensile strength meets ASTM D412
  • For simple installation and detailing, our Balconyguard™ System includes custom corner boots, saving time and money
  • Elongation meets ASTM D412

2. Protect Your Wood Deck from the Sun

A wood deck will fade and gray over time due to its exposure to sunlight, decreasing the deck’s beauty and value. You can help protect your wood deck from sun damage by implementing several steps:

  • Protect your deck from sunlight by applying a waterproof protective sealant with U.V. resistance.
  • Cover the deck with a UV-resistant retractable awning, umbrella, Pergola, or shade sail.
  • Stain the deck with a light color since light colors absorb less heat than dark colors.
  • Avoid pressure washing which can weaken the wood, making it susceptible to sun damage.

3. Remove Snow and Ice from Your Deck

Snow and ice on your deck can severely structurally damage and impact the appearance and safety of the wood, which can lead to costly repairs due to mold, mildew, and rot:

  • Immediately remove snow and ice using a plastic broom or shovel
  • Always sweep or shovel in the direction of the boards, not against them.

4. Protect Your Deck from Debris

Debris like dirt, pollen, dust, and leaves that accumulate on a wood deck can lead to unsightly tannin stains on the wood. In addition, organic matter on the deck acts as a sponge that can create a breeding ground for damaging wood fungi:

  • Space the deck boards at least ¼-inch apart so you can remove trapped debris before it rots the joists.
  • Routinely sweep your deck to remove debris.
  • Trim back overhanging trees and branches to lessen the amount of debris falling onto your deck.

5. Routinely Inspect and Repair Your Deck

To ensure the longevity of your wood deck, inspect it at the beginning of each season, and immediately repair any problems:

  • Replace boards damaged by rot
  • Replace any rusted screws and bolts, which can loosen, impacting the structural integrity of your deck.
  • For safety, tighten any loose deck board
  • Fix popped nails or screws

Let PolyWall Help Protect Your Wood Deck

The long-term aesthetics and value of your wood deck require protecting it against damaging environmental elements like moisture, U.V. rays, snow, ice, and debris with products like PolyWall Rot Shield Joist Tape and Polyflow® BD Sheet Molded Drainage Mat. You must also routinely maintain and repair the deck. Proper design and maintenance will ensure your outdoor space’s long-term enjoyment and beauty.

Contact the Polyguard professionals for more information on how PolyWall’s Rot Shield Joist Tape can protect your wood deck and make your deck last a lifetime.

The Best Way to Protect Your Pipeline from Abrasion Damage

Protecting the exterior surface of underground pipelines from abrasion damage due to rocks, boulders, and above-ground traffic and equipment requires an abrasion-resistant outer layer or coating. An effective way to ensure an abrasion-resistant steel pipe involves applying a protective layer, like Polyguard IRO™ (Impact Resistant Outerwrap) and IRO™ HD (Heavy Duty) products.

Abrasion Resistant Pipes

Two less expensive ways to protect a pipeline from abrasion include using selective backfill and protective material laid over the pipeline before backfilling operations. A pipeline project engineer should determine the most cost-effective method for protecting your pipeline from abrasion damage, which can lead to expensive repairs and shutdowns.

Why You Need Abrasion Resistant Pipelines

An underground pipeline’s external coating or layer must protect the steel against its primary threat – corrosion. To control corrosion, the outer coating/layer system must withstand environmental stresses due to scraping, erosion, scratching, etc., without suffering premature failure. Therefore, pipeline engineers, designers, and owners must consider abrasion resistance when choosing a pipeline’s outer coating.

Abrasion damage resulting in a loss of coating protection often displays as corrosion. An outer layer or coating without abrasion resistance can crack due to forceful impact or wear away with the constant flow of sand and water, which can expose the substrate to salt, and water, ultimately resulting in corrosion. In addition, above-ground traffic, equipment, and other impacts can crack the coating and leave the steel unprotected from corrosion.

Choosing an abrasion-resistant outer layer or coating that can withstand heavy-duty environments will provide the best way to protect your costly pipes from abrasion damage. Abrasion resistance will ensure the longevity of the coating system and lessening potential costs due to repairs and shutdowns.

What Makes a Coating or Layer System Abrasion Resistant?

Abrasion resistance refers to a coating’s ability to resist wear due to erosion or impact, and allow the system to continue providing comprehensive protection to the substrate. Generally speaking, hard, flexible, smooth, and thick coatings can best prevent coating wear by abrasion, impact, and erosion.

  • The coating must provide enough hardness to withstand an impact that could fracture the system down to the substrate.
  • The flexibility of the coating should prevent brittleness by balancing out its hardness.
  • A smooth coating will limit abrasion since it takes rough surfaces coming into contact with each other to create an abrasion.
  • It will take longer to wear a thicker coating down to the substrate than a thinner coat.

Protect Your Pipes from Abrasion Damage with Polyguard’s IRO and IRO HD

Abrasion-resistant Polyguard IRO™ (Impact Resistant Outerwrap, 0.013-inch thick layer) and IRO™ HD (Heavy Duty, 0.034-inch thick layer) protect a buried pipe’s pre-approved field joint and mainline coatings (RD-6®, liquid epoxies, and Fusion Bond Epoxy (FBE), etc.) from abrasion damage for many applications, including:

  • Aggressive soil conditions
  • Thrust boring and microtunneling
  • Mainline coating protection
  • HDD (Horizontal Directional Drilling)
  • Field-applied ARO (Abrasion Resistant Overlay)
  • Air to soil transitions

Polyguard recommends using this system as a protective layer for field joints installed by a trenchless method that could impact a high consequence area (HCA) like a building, road, water, or populated place.

Advantages of Polyguard IRO™ and IRO™ HD

IRO™ and IRO™ HD provide numerous advantages and features that help an underground steel pipe’s successful longevity and design:

  • Excellent flexibility, gouge, and impact resistance:
  • The IRO and IRO HD products eliminate the chance for costly spot repairs or re-pulling pipes. They also provide exceptional mechanical protection of the mainline coatings and underlying field joints.
  • IRO and IRO HD products incorporate fibers to improve the system’s flexibility, gouge, and abrasion resistance while maintaining the resin’s effectiveness.
  • It minimizes repairs.

Abrasion Resistant Pipes Installation

Straightforward installation:

  • Moisture-cured IRO™ and IRO™ HD do not need UV light or heating.
  • The system’s simple application allows speedy coating protection and backfill.
  • IRO and IRO HD products permit pipeline operators to apply girth weld coatings at an ideal thickness to achieve optimum performance with the corrosion barrier.
  • IRO and IRO HD products produce smooth profiles to lessen damage during the pull-through.
  • IRO™ and IRO™ HD-controlled set times, packaging, and conformability help ensure efficient installations with consistent applications in any project environment.

It is essential to know that increasing the coating’s thickness will reduce its flexibility and impact resistance.

Help with code compliance:

  • Polyguard IRO™ and IRO™ HD work with cathodic protection (CP) systems for utilization according to DOT and PHMSA codes.
    • 100-percent solids content
    • Non-shielding and non-hazardous

The Best Way to Protect your Pipeline from Abrasion Damage – Polyguard IRO™ and IRO™ HD

Protecting the exterior surface of underground pipelines requires applying a superior abrasion-resistant outer layer or coating, like Polyguard IRO™ (Impact Resistant Outerwrap) and IRO™ HD (Heavy Duty) products. Our outer layer products protect underground pipelines, mainline coatings, and pre-approved field joints from abrasion damage. Furthermore, our simple-to-install systems provide excellent flexibility, as well as gouge, and impact resistance.

Don’t hesitate to contact our pipeline experts for more on the best way to protect your pipeline from abrasion damage.

How to Apply Aluminum Window Flashing

Properly applied aluminum window flashing contributes significantly toward a building’s or home’s tight building envelope. They will also help keep pests and insects outside and lessen the growth of structurally damaging and unhealthy mold. Even the tiniest gap around a window will allow a significant amount of water to infiltrate the structure’s interior. Therefore, PolyWall strongly recommends leaving the window flashing application to the building professionals. In addition, your local ordinances may require a local building inspector to ensure that the flashing (and all window installation details) meets local building codes.

Window Flashing Codes

The 2021 IRC (R703.4.1) and IBC (1405.4) mandate installing flashing on the exterior window and door openings to stop moisture from entering the wall or redirect it to the exterior. Furthermore, ENERGY STAR Certified Homes and DOE Zero Energy Ready Home require flashing window and door openings.

Applying Aluminum Window Flashings

Properly flashed and installed windows will add value to your building or home. They will also save energy and money for years to come. Installing a new, water- and air-tight aluminum window requires properly layering a sequence of specific window flashings.
Each layer overlaps the layer below in order to direct the water flow down and away.

To maintain the window’s warranty, you must follow the manufacturer’s recommendations for applying flashing to a specific window. However, builders typically follow a standard sequence of steps when installing flashing around a new window. NOTE: You should only install flashing on clean, dust-free, smooth, and dry services.

Step 1: Wrap Vapor or Weather Resistant Barrier Around Window Edges

Technically, the window flashing system does not include the vapor barrier. However, you can add significant protection against water infiltration by wrapping the exterior wall vapor barrier (house wrap) around the inside edges (jambs and sills) of the windows (and doors) rough openings.

Step 1: Wrap Vapor or Weather Resistant Barrier Around Window Edges

Polyguard Peel and Stick Vapor Barriers

The simplicity of applying peel and stick vapor barriers make it the preferred water vapor barrier for residential, institutional, and commercial buildings. A quality peel and stick vapor barrier offers durability, fast adherence, puncture, sunlight, and chemical resistance. They also lack VOCs. All of these features can be provided by Polyguard PEEL-N-STICK™ products, like:

Our products guarantee a long-lasting, high-performing vapor barrier for your building when properly installed.

Step 2. Back Dam

Install a back dam or positive slope on the sill to prevent the back flowing of water on the site.

Step 3. Header Vapor Barrier

Temporarily pull back and secure the vapor barrier covering above the header, to expose about a foot of substrate.

Step 4. Apply Self-Stick Flashing Tape

Cut a piece of flashing tape the width of the window, plus six inches so it overlaps three inches on each side.

Step 5: Remove Backing

Remove the sticky backing and install flashing on the sill.

Step 6: Cut Window Sills

Cut the window sill at the corners of the rough opening so you can fold the flashing onto the barrier service.

Step 7: Cut Flashings

Cut flashing patches and install them at each corner.

Step 8: Insert Window

Carefully place the window into the rough opening, and level.

Step 9: Cut Flashing

Measure and cut two sections of the flashing to overlap the window sill.

Step 10: Extend Flashing Over Opening

At the top and bottom of the window, extend the flashing three inches above and below the opening.

Step 11. Roll Flashing

Roll the entire service of the flashing with a hand roller to seal the bond.

Step 12: Extend Flashing Beyond Jamb Flashing

Measure and cut one piece of flashing that will overlap and extend two inches beyond the jamb flashing onto the exposed substrate (wood).

Step 13: Fold Vapor Barrier Over Header

Fold the vapor barrier above the header over the window seal. Then, cut two six-inch flashing pieces to cover the 45-degree cuts and the vapor barrier.

Step 14: Install Drip Cap

Drip caps fit over the top of a window like a small canopy, to shed water outward and keep it from seeping behind the window.

Common Errors When Installing Window Flashing

Successful window flashing installation requires attention to detail according to the manufacturer’s specifications. The most common flashing mistakes include:

  • Stretching the flashing tape during installation can cause it to contract and pull away
  • Not following the specs for installing and sealing windows and window flashing can result in a window that leaks
  • Not layering flashing materials in a “shingle” fashion
  • Trapping water inside when sealing the bottom of the window
  • Not using a flashing membrane roller to adhere the flashing tape to the vapor barrier will not secure the flashing

PolyWall’s Superior Window Flashing Tapes

PolyWall building solutions offer four top window flashings that stop moisture and air infiltration, contributing significantly to a building’s tight building envelope. In addition, all our window flashing products come in rolls with a simple-to-remove film release liner to efficiently and successfully flash window frames, ensuring the long-term integrity of the seal and reducing maintenance and repair.

1. WindowSeal® Window Flashing

Self-adhering, 20-mil WindowSeal® Window Flashing is a waterproof rubberized asphalt tape laminated to a polyethylene film. The design of WindowSeal® allows for application in ambient temperatures and surface temperatures between 40°F (5°C) and 120°F (49°C). However, using Poly Wall’s Polybond Liquid Adhesive can reduce the WindowSeal application temperature to 25°F (-4°C).

Butyl Flash Window Flashing

2. Butyl Flash Window Flashing

Self-adhering, self-sealing Butyl Flash Window Flashing tape consists of a rubberized asphalt waterproofing coating laminated to a polyethylene film. You can apply Butyl Flash Window Flashing in hot and cold temperatures, down to 15ºF (-9.4°C).

3. Aluma Flash™ UV Resistant Window Flashing

Self-adhering, self-sealing tape Aluma Flash™ UV Resistant Window Flashing Is a rubberized asphalt waterproofing coating laminated to a polyethylene film. It contains a top layer of aluminum that protects against UV exposure for 365 days. The 20 mils thick product comes in various roll sizes with an easy-to-remove film release liner to efficiently and effectively flash window frames, door frames, and other construction seams.

Aluma Flash™ UV Resistant Window Flashing

4. ArcFlash™ Window Flashing

70 mil, self-adhering, self-sealing ArcFlash is a waterproofing rubberized asphalt tape that laminates to a crimped, stretchable, high-strength polyethylene film backing. It is designed specifically for arched window flashing applications.

Creating a Tight Building Envelope with PolyWall Window Flashing

Applying window flashing tapes, like PolyWall Window Flashing products and Polyguard PEEL-N-STICK™ vapor barrier products, will significantly contribute to stopping moisture infiltration that can lead to damaging and unhealthy mold. In addition, Aluminum window flashing and a vapor barrier can reduce energy and improve air quality. They will also ensure the seal’s long-term integrity, which lessens repair and maintenance costs. Furthermore, flexible, self-adhering, PolyWall flashing rolls quicken application time and provide an effective and long-lasting seal. They will also resist tearing due to structural movements.

Don’t hesitate to contact the professionals at PolyWall today for more on how to apply aluminum window flashing.

How to Protect Deck Joists From Rot

The damp, unventilated area under a deck makes deck joints extremely susceptible to fungal rot, which can lead to costly repairs and potential failure. The fungi hyphae spread through the wood, disintegrating the cell walls and lessening their strength.

To stop deck joist rot and preserve your deck’s value and integrity, you must eliminate the wood-rotting fungi by removing one of the elements it needs to thrive. These elements include:

  • Moisture
  • Substrate (food)
  • Oxygen
  • Source of a fungi infection
  • Suitable temperature

How to Protect Your Deck Joists From Rot – 10 Tips

Removing moisture is the most efficient and effective way to stop deck joist rot, and ensure that your deck joists last for years. Fungi need moisture levels above 18 percent to grow. Therefore, keeping the joist’s moisture level below 18 percent should prevent rot. Unfortunately, there is no practical solution to controlling oxygen, temperature, or the fungi’s infection source. In addition, eliminating the food source (wood) requires using an alternative joist material or treating the wood.

How can you protect deck joists from rot? PolyWall offers ten tips for minimizing the moisture that can rot your deck joists.

1. Apply a Quality Deck Joist Tape

A high-quality deck joist tape, like PolyWall Rot Shield Joist Tape, will significantly improve your deck’s durability, ensuring the deck’s long-term integrity and minimizing costly repairs. Cold-applying self-adhering deck joist tape as a flashing on ledger boards and deck joists creates a durable moisture and debris barrier between the joists, deck boards, and ledger boards, enhancing the deck’s durability and lowering or eliminating expensive repairs.

How to Protect Deck Joists From Rot

PolyWall Rot Shield Joist Tape

PolyWall Rot Shield Joist Tape contains a rubberized-asphalt ‘sticky’ compound with a high-density polyethylene (HDPE) plastic film face. The brown-colored Rot Shield Joist Tape camouflages below deck boards.

The Benefits of PolyWall Rot Shield Joist Tape

  • Rot Shield Joist Tape creates a water and debris barrier between non-corrosive galvanized metal hangers and treated lumber, to protect vulnerable wood joists (untreated and treated), ledger boards, and rim joists from moisture and potential damaging rot.
  • Rot Shield Joist Tape blocks contact between the galvanized metal fasteners and treated wood to prevent corrosion.
  • The flashing tape stops water infiltration by helping to seal around screw holes, metal fasteners, and hidden deck fasteners. It also stops cracks and corrosion of the metal surface.
  • Deck joist tape between metal hangers and treated wood stops leaching copper from corroding the joist hinges that hold together the deck.

Simple to Apply Rot Shield Joist Tape

Rot Shield Joist Tape provides deck builders and DIYers with a simple, one-step method to protect deck joists from water and rot damage.

The Benefits of PolyWall Rot Shield Joist Tape

PolyWall manufactures Rot Shield Joist Tape in wide, 4-inch by 100-foot rolls with an easy-to-apply split release liner. The tape guidelines (1.25-inches from the edge on each side) create a smooth, clean installation and a high-quality appearance to minimize adjustments and wrinkles.

Furthermore, deck builders can apply the joist tape without priming and in chilly-winter weather. In addition, our UV-stable (up to 120 days) joist tape will minimize initial callbacks and repairs.

Contact Polyguard professionals for more information on how PolyWall’s Rot Shield Joist Tape can protect your deck joists from rot and make your deck last a lifetime.

Treat End Cuts of Joist

2. Treat End Cuts of Joist

Treating the untreated ends of treated wood will add years to your deck joist’s lifetime.

3. Ventilation Dries Deck Joist

Providing fresh air movement by under deck venting will reduce harmful humidity and keep your joists dry. A straightforward way to allow moisture to escape under the deck is by designing your deck with vents or ¾” gaps between skirting material.

4. Slope the Deck

Adding a slight slope to the deck (⅛-inch to 1/32-inch over a foot) will allow water to drain off the decking boards and not seep down to the joists. Allowing moisture to pool on the deck will increase moisture in the wood to the level needed for fungi growth.

5. Overhang the Decking

Avoid cutting decking flush to the edge of the adjacent structure so that water will run off the edge and not soak into the joist.

6. Use Treated Wood for Joist

Wood treated against fungi and insects will last longer than untreated wood. However, choosing wood treated to a higher level – 0.40 PCF (chemical injected per cubic foot of wood – will significantly improve the wood’s rot resistance.

7. Secure Deck’s Edges

Securing the deck’s edging will prevent it from cupping, which can lead to pools of water that will make their way to the joists.

8. Remove Organic Material from Deck

Organic material on a deck and between the boards acts as a sponge and provides an ideal breeding ground for fungi. Spacing the boards at least ¼-inch apart will allow you to remove trapped debris before it rots the joists.

9. Seal the Joist with a Water Repellent Sealer

Applying a water repellent sealer to the joist will help repel moisture and inhibit rot growth.

10. Treat Joist with Antifreeze

Adding a little water and boric acid to antifreeze and brushing or rolling it over the joists provides a cheap and effective way to stop fungi growth.

Protecting Your Deck Joist from Rot with Rot Shield Joist Tape

Properly installed, Rot Shield Joist Tape establishes a barrier between the ledger board, joists, and deck boards, to protect your deck from damage caused by water that can accumulate under the deck and create an environment where rot will thrive.

For more on how to protect your deck joist from rot and how PolyWall’s Rot Shield Joist Tape will protect a deck’s aesthetics, integrity, and value, minimizing expensive repairs to your deck, don’t hesitate to contact us at PolyWall today.